DIY - How-To Paint A Frame
FatTony
- March 03 2009
- 40,805 views
- 118 comments
This article should really be called “How-To Paint A Frame And Not Make It Look Like Crap.” Anyone can pick up a cheap can of spray paint and go to town on their bike, but getting a frame to look like it just came from the powder coater requires a bit more attention to detail and a few extra steps…
I’ll start out by saying there is nothing wrong with getting a can of paint from the $0.99 store and giving your bike a quick coat with all the parts still on it… But obviously it won’t look very good. This how-to is geared for the rider who wants a custom paint job or new color and wants the frame to look brand new.
We started out with a Premium Lowpez LT frame right out of the box. Lucky for us, this frame came in a matte/flat finish, making it a bit easier to paint and eliminating an extra step.
If you prefer the “in a nutshell” version of this tutorial, click through the images in the slideshow. If you want further explanation, read the detailed steps below the slideshow.
Photos by Fat, Fudger, and Daniel.
Here we have a brand new Premium Lowpez LT frame, a pack of assorted grit sandpaper, some paper towels, a can of Rust-Oleum spray paint, and a can of Rust-Oleum gloss clear coat. The sandpaper, paint, and clear coat came up to a total of $9.50. You can buy these items at places like Walmart or Home Deopt.
Take everything off the frame that is removable such as gyro tabs, brake mounts, cable guides, seat clamp bolts, etc.
Also take all the decals off the frame. If this leaves a sticky residue you can use a number of solutions to get it off. In the past I’ve used gasoline, WD-40, and Goo-Gone. Just pour your solution onto the surface of the frame or onto a paper towel and scrub until it’s all off.
This is where we got to skip a step or two because our Premium Lowpez LT frame already had a matte finish… If you have a gloss finish on your frame or have several coats of paint already on it you may want to either sand it with a rough grit paper to remove as much paint as possible or use a paint-removal product such as Aircraft Remover. This product is tricky, so read the instructions very carefully, protect your skin, and be prepared for a mess.
If you use Aircraft Remover to remove glossy paint, preceded to use rough sand paper to finish removing any remaining paint, clean the frame, then apply two coats of primer. Since our Premium frame came in a flat black color, the matte finish acted as a primer, which helps the new paint stick to the metal surface.
Finally you have a frame with nothing on it and your sand paper. For the Premium Lowpez frame with a matte finish I chose to start with 220 grit sand paper.
Sand the frame just enough to scratch the surface. You aren’t trying to remove all the existing paint; you just want to scuff it up enough for a new coat of paint to stick. Be sure to get into all the hard to reach areas where the tubes meet.
Once you have sanded the whole frame it will look like a dull version of whatever it looked like before. Don’t throw away the scraps of sand paper yet because you may need them later.
After the frame is sanded it will have a layer of paint residue left over that you need to wipe clean with a wet paper towel, sponge, or cloth. Continue to wipe the frame until you don’t see any more paint powder on the towel or sponge.
Now you need to let the clean frame dry completely.
While the frame is drying you need to prepare the holes for painting. You do not want to get paint into anywhere that other parts need to go later. You can use paper towels to stuff into holes where removable brake mounts would go. If you don’t have removable brake mounts, cover the posts with painter’s tape.
You don’t want to get paint or overspray into areas of your frame that other parts will go later. So tape off the inside of the headset, bottom bracket, and seat tube. If it isn’t perfect, don’t worry—you’ll be able to sand down and remove any overspray later.
Once your frame is sanded, cleaned, dried, and taped off you are finally ready to paint it. You want to be in a wide-open space, preferably outside. We chose to hang the frame through the head tube with a broomstick. Get creative with this part but keep in mind you’ll need to be able to see and move all around the frame and you will be getting overspray on anything within a few feet radius of the frame. Another option is to hang a string through the headtube from the ceiling in a garage. Just lay some newspaper on the floor so you don’t get overspray all over the ground.
We chose Rust-Oleum brand paint because it is good for metal surfaces. A generic brand paint won’t spray as evenly and generally won’t look as good. Read the fine print on the spray can for any warnings or special instructions you may need to consider before you begin. DO NOT hold down the spray tip continuously, creating a solid stream of paint. Use short bursts of paint as you quickly move the can back and forth in a straight line. If you hold the can in one position for any length of time or hold a continuous stream, the paint will get too thick and create drip marks and runs.
Move around the frame and spray from all directions and angles to make sure you cover the entire frame. Make sure to get into the cracks where hard to reach tubes meet lik under the dropouts and where the chainstays meet the bottom bracket. Concentrate on getting an even coat over the entire frame. Don’t try to put a thick, heavy coat of paint. It is best to do several thin, even coats.
After your first coat of paint, let it dry for 15-30 minutes then apply a second coat. Again, thin coats work best. Wait another 15-30 minutes and apply a third and final coat of paint. Keep in mind that paint takes longer to dry in colder temperatures. It is ideal to paint the frame when it is warm outside.
After the final coat of paint has dried and cured for several hours (or even a full day) you are ready to put the clear coat on it. The clear coat will help prevent rusting and protect the paint from minor dings and scratches. It will also help keep the gloss finish of the paint shining. Apply the clear coat just like you did the first coat of paint, waiting 15-30 minutes in between coats and applying a total of three coats. Clear coat tends to run and drip more than paint does, so be very careful to apply it evenly and never use a constant stream when spraying.
Leave the frame hanging to dry for at least 24 hours before you handle it or build it back up with parts. This is one of the hardest parts of painting a frame because riders often get anxious to build up their fresh frame when they see how good it looks. 
When the clear coat has totally cured, carefully remove any paper towels or tape you used to prevent overspray into areas like the bottom bracket, seat tube, brake mounts, etc.
Slight overspray on the areas you tapped up is common even if you were careful to cover them. Use fine grit sand paper to gently sand away any unwanted paint that may make building the bike difficult.
Put back on your gyro tabs, brake mounts, cable guides, and seat post clamp bolt.
And now you are finished and ready to build up your freshly painted frame. Our Premium Lowpez LT frame looks great and we will test it out soon.
To upload photos or videos, 
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March 3rd, 2009 at 8:47 am
thats why old frame looks so bad i put heavy layers of paint on
March 3rd, 2009 at 9:21 am
Ride, nice article. Keep em coming.
March 3rd, 2009 at 10:12 am
This should be titled how to “paint your scooter”!
March 3rd, 2009 at 11:27 am
NICE NICE NICE
March 3rd, 2009 at 11:55 am
I don’t get it
March 3rd, 2009 at 12:03 pm
you shouldve donw 1-2 more pictures showing you scratching the frame with your fingernail,then an after shot of the affect from it. i hate spray painting cause no matter how many layers,or how many days i let it sit,im always able to scratch it off no problem. so frustrating.
March 3rd, 2009 at 12:32 pm
your an idiot
March 3rd, 2009 at 12:41 pm
what do you use to protect the paint if you want it flat and not gloss?
March 3rd, 2009 at 1:23 pm
Rustolium and Krylon both make a Flat Clear coat. Same deal, just keeps it flat.
March 3rd, 2009 at 1:29 pm
they make a flat clear coat it works the same just not as shiny
March 3rd, 2009 at 2:19 pm
I my god do you people realize what that frame will do god dam it is by far the hottest frame out there
March 3rd, 2009 at 2:55 pm
another option for people who arent poor, bring the frame to your local powder coater and ask them what color they are doing that week, if you like any then ask them to do your frame while they have it set up, that will usually save you a ton of money because its not extra work for them. ive done it a couple times and its about $40 bucks and its just as good as the original powdercoat.
March 3rd, 2009 at 3:15 pm
Great tip “painter”! Thanks for that one. You can look up “powder coating” on yellowpages.com to find a place near you.
March 3rd, 2009 at 4:11 pm
Now a tutorial on matte painting please!!!
March 3rd, 2009 at 4:29 pm
i agree, there should be a tutorial on matte painting aswell
March 3rd, 2009 at 4:43 pm
all it takes to do matte is to buy matte paint and follow the instructions,they used gloss on this bike.than get flat clearcoat..simple as funk
March 3rd, 2009 at 5:54 pm
Timm-e is right. Follow these same steps using a “matte” or “flat” spray paint and clear coat and you should be good to go!
This tutorial also works on bars, forks, and other parts. Upload some of your custom painted bikes to the reader photo section and let us see what you have done!
March 3rd, 2009 at 8:49 pm
there could be numerous things wrong with what you are doing. either your not sanding well enough, your painting in too cold of conditions for the paint (which can be fixed in a couple of ways, blow dryers, heaters, or anything else that produces heat will do the trick), or you are using using crappy paint without clearcoat.
March 3rd, 2009 at 9:17 pm
If you send your frame to get powdercoat, it will broke, that’s because all this new frames are heat treated after welding, so, if you powdercoat it again the steel structure will change again since it will be under some heat when they apply the new coat. When the frame is brand new this won’t happen because the heat it get on the first coat is with in the tolerance of the heat treatment. So, spend those $9.50 buks and get your self a brand new looking frame.
March 3rd, 2009 at 9:44 pm
that’s what I did when I got my 2HIp playboi, and the cool thing was they where doing black chrome witch made the frame look like ice gray super sweet and only cost 30$$
March 3rd, 2009 at 9:48 pm
what? frames get powdered after heat treamtent in the first place straight from the factory… you think they would powder coat your frame if it ruined the heat treat? use your brain.
March 3rd, 2009 at 9:53 pm
chucho what the hell are you saying, every powdercoater uses the same baking temp, the first one the frame builders use wont differ from what your local guy uses. so why would it “broke” your frame? not to mention the temp at which the powder is baked is not enough to alter the heat treatment. please dont post these statements if you dont know what your talking about.
March 3rd, 2009 at 10:57 pm
chucho is a crack baby. i had my hawk frame sandblasted and re-powdercoated two weeks ago. it’s dizzzzialedddd!
March 4th, 2009 at 7:03 pm
this is probably a stupid question, but does temperature matter when you are rawing? will it strip easier if it’s warmer?
March 4th, 2009 at 8:25 pm
this helped out alot. im painting my frame soon and this will make it much easier. thanx for the info ride
March 4th, 2009 at 8:35 pm
Just another random tip; At times the paint will also clog up a bit on a heavier paint (i.e. Rustoleum), so after you spray for a bit, wipe the end of the tip between sprays. At times, the tips are not manufactured perfectly, (a circular deformity) and the paint will build up on the non-equivalent edge. This will cause the paint to blow small streams or blobs of paint, and they are nearly impossible to rid of without sanding the frame again after it has dried, and applying another coat. Watch out for such situations, as the time it takes to fix such impurities in the paint job is much longer than to wipe the tip between every spray. This does not occur for the most part, but when it does, you will be stuck fixing it for longer than the total time of preparation and paint. HAPPY PAINTING!
March 4th, 2009 at 8:38 pm
And by all means, Chucho is certainly incorrect on this one. As “Painter” and “Sun City Coatings” expressed, the powder coating is done after the heat treating and completion of all machining and welding on the frame.
March 5th, 2009 at 2:03 am
i know a bout a million people have commented on how stupid and dumb “Chucho’s” comment was and it was so stupid i have to comment too….i have worked at a welding supply store for about 7 years now and know about as much as ya can about welds and there is no freakin way a powder coat can even remotely effect a weld id be more worried about over sandblastin or grindin crap down first and i dont even worry bout dat
March 6th, 2009 at 1:39 am
Hmm do you think anyone could post some pics of them sanding it down from a gloss frame rather than a matte?
also would the fit street 2 copper color be gloss or matte?
thanks
March 6th, 2009 at 11:12 pm
haha true
March 7th, 2009 at 11:15 pm
what if you want to apply a flat paint color do you still need to put on the clear paint
March 8th, 2009 at 5:27 pm
Would these instructions still work if the frame being painted is chrome? Is there any extra steps/precautions to take in this case? Or is painting a chrome frame just a bad idea?
March 8th, 2009 at 9:24 pm
I just use auto paint and clear coat. way more durable.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:22 pm
Saw that frame yesterday pretty crazy! Maybe i’ll do a how to splatter paint your whip “how to” and send it ya’lls way. Jackson Pollock style.
March 12th, 2009 at 2:36 pm
what?? …nevermind.
March 12th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
Just the article I’ve been waiting to read. Much thanks, FatTony.
March 16th, 2009 at 8:01 am
sexylicios in my bed of nutricious items
March 16th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
i use paint remover
its easier then sanding your frame down
March 17th, 2009 at 11:24 am
Your article was pretty straight forward and you included some nice pics! Your finished frame looks great! I love that color blue! I do have a question for you though - curious why in your instructions you made no mention of wet sanding the frame? Personally, I would have wet sanded it after the final color coat but prior to clear coating. Using 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper I would have VERY lightly wet sanded the frame and I mean VERY lightly! Not applying pressure really - just enough to ensure consistent smoothness of the entire frame but not hard enough to cause damage to the new paint. After wet sanding, use either a tack cloth or a rag with a bit of rubbing alcohol on it and wipe down entire frame to remove any excess water, paint, etc…. Let frame sit for a bit to TOTALLY dry. Once dry, then clear coat just as you instructed except - in between 2nd and 3rd coat of clear coat - I would repeat the wet sand drill. It may take a lot longer to complete project but the frame will truly look great when done. Regarding the final wet sand drill - I would wait at least 24 hrs (assuming frame is located somewhere with “normal” temperature like 70-ish [Fahrenheit]) from the time I applied 2nd clear coat before I wet sanded. In other words, make sure the clear coat that is on it already is totally cured and dry! When doing the wet sand drill key word is “lightly!” Just enough to ensure the frame is smooth!! When done, wipe down frame lightly with alcohol rag, wait for it to totally dry, and then apply final clear coat. Oh one other thing - do NOT touch the frame at all once it has been wiped down with the alcohol rag!! The oil(s) in your skin will adhere to paint, clear coat and ultimately have effect on finished product - although not major, enough that it may be noticeable. The wet sanding stages will really make it shine and aid in the gloss effect of the gloss paint and clear coat. Just my two-cents and some FYI. This tip and two bucks will get you a cup of coffee at Dunkin Donuts…. But does make it look REALLY nice! For real!
March 17th, 2009 at 9:58 pm
umm what???
March 18th, 2009 at 9:51 pm
yo thanks for that tutorial it was useful, im thinkin of spray painting my frame becuz its cheaper than powdercoating and thank god for this tutorial i think it will help me alot. cheers
March 22nd, 2009 at 5:02 am
wat do u do to spray the whole bike do u follow the same steps or different ones?
March 26th, 2009 at 10:49 pm
this is all right, except painting in the sunlight usualy causes the paint to dry to fast to let it stick to the frame, causing it to chip faster, and yea, that include clear coat.
March 28th, 2009 at 4:00 pm
wait. i have a question i want to paint my bike the same color as this bike before they painted it glosy blue. but how do i paint my bike that black color without making it glosy colored, so what do i use to make it not glosy
March 28th, 2009 at 5:25 pm
Thanks for this..it helped me a lot and my bike looks new now!
March 30th, 2009 at 4:48 pm
hmmm very irresponsible to post this article….not only powdercoating, but spraypainting WILL damage a heat-treated frame…. spray-painting as descrined in this article.
YOU CAN’T use powder-coat…trust me…..i had a friend who powdercaoted his 41 Thermal Sunda and when he went outside when it was dry, it was cracked right on the seat stay.
my other freind had a FBM super Therm & same thing, he went out to his garage after 24 hours and it was broke in half…and fbM wont warranty if you use powdercoat……..
March 31st, 2009 at 11:08 am
Its true, clear coat will break your frame. Especially Rust-O-leum. I got a drop of that stuff on my STA and it cracked like the liberty bell
April 2nd, 2009 at 1:25 pm
also if your having trouble taking the goo off after you take a sticker off rubbing alcohol works awesome just spray some on and rub it off. the glue will roll into smallm lumps and you just pick them off
April 4th, 2009 at 6:33 pm
Coool!
April 5th, 2009 at 10:21 am
nice i need this im about to paint my bars and fork
April 6th, 2009 at 5:33 pm
THE FRAMES SO LOW IT LOOKS LIKE A SCOOTER DUMB BUM
April 8th, 2009 at 12:02 am
buy flat black
April 8th, 2009 at 4:46 pm
very good article, but ive sanded mine down too much so its like bare shiny metal , will this be ok to paint and what should i do ? cheers
April 10th, 2009 at 6:41 pm
umm yeah just usr good primer and you should be set my fork looks awesome just remember to wait til the nexty day before you put it back on, i didnt and had to get mine sand blasted because of the clear coat
April 12th, 2009 at 8:19 pm
bwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah it looks like a trials bike i love trials
I <3 Garrett Reynolds
April 16th, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Good article!:)
Ive been looking for one on how to paint my bike, thanks to this
now I can!
Ride it!
April 17th, 2009 at 4:44 pm
that my bike
April 18th, 2009 at 2:39 pm
good help about spraying my frame it is sick blood
April 20th, 2009 at 5:37 pm
ya me to
April 21st, 2009 at 4:22 pm
hey fat tony thanks.
It’s awesome you posted this article as i was considering getting this frame but wanted the garret turqoise (assuming i get one!) is there any way you could maybe end the debate with the heat treating comments as i would like to be acknowledgeable and not incompetent like some other people. Maybe tell us at what temperature frame’s are originally heat treated and weather another significant source of heat or even very sunny and hot days could on top of it reduce the strength of our frame, and what temperature a powdercoat machine works at.
p.S.
Please check my email via myspace to the premiumproducts page.
The Doc,
April 22nd, 2009 at 4:26 pm
Don’t use wd-40 to take the stickers off or in any situation where paint is involved. it contains silicone and leaves a residue that paint won’t stick to. This is why most bodyshops don’t even allow it in their buildings. Right on with the rustoleum though- it’s got less hardener in it which makes it chip less than other brands.
April 24th, 2009 at 8:13 am
no its actually worse…u gota sand it down to the metal its like the gloss instructions for removing paint.make sure u do a good job removing it cuz youll see were the chrome is and it wont stick hope this helped.
April 24th, 2009 at 8:15 am
and flat gloss.
April 30th, 2009 at 3:20 pm
check out my repaint
http://www.fakesite.com/?tag=sickchild
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32teeth/sets/72157616147883820/
May 8th, 2009 at 7:38 pm
well heat treating they heat untill the metal is like orange so thats bangin hot…
May 12th, 2009 at 4:29 am
ive got a 2008 fit team park in the green colour and i wanna get rid of all the pain and make the frame a glossy raw colour, do i just do the first few instructions then put the clear coat over it?
May 15th, 2009 at 3:03 pm
A final step was left out. Polishing compound. this will make the paint look like glass.
May 15th, 2009 at 9:48 pm
I just rawed and painted my bike recently. I used aircraft stripper because I didn’t want to mess with sanding it…but that’s a great tip, using the existing, but sanded, powdercoat as the primer. I hadn’t thought of that.
What the hell are you guys talking about with the “painting a frame will crack it” stuff? I’ve painted several frames, HT frames, and never had this happen. you can strip and repaint anything…powder coaters wouldn’t DO it if it damaged the frames because they’d be covered in legal battles.
May 18th, 2009 at 12:43 am
Another tip, use grease in the holes or anywhere you don’t want the paint to stick and just wipe it off later. Generally if you keep grease in all the holes of your bike, e.g. all the hex nuts and etc. it will also prevent any rust, it may be an aluminum frame but the bolts are steel.
May 22nd, 2009 at 7:35 pm
can you sand blast a frame without damaging it.
June 1st, 2009 at 6:56 pm
this is a pretty good paint job but no matter what its going to get chipped easily try power coating with a compressor……way better!
June 2nd, 2009 at 9:20 pm
im gonna spray paint my frame purple, im wondering that if you sand it too much it will make the frame too rough and it wont be smooth even when you put clear coat on. what do you reckon
June 5th, 2009 at 9:07 pm
i have a totally raw frame. should i use primer and then sand that to make it rough then proceed like it says above?
June 13th, 2009 at 6:50 pm
I just painted my frame, fork , and bars , this was a great help looks like a pro job. thanks
June 13th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
Hey, im painting my bars black is Krylon good?
June 17th, 2009 at 8:56 pm
hey i just painted my frame with krylon spray paint and used a whole can of clear coat… its been drying for 2 days and i can scratch it with my finger nail… any tips on how to get it to stay on the frame? any paint brands that work?
June 24th, 2009 at 6:55 am
Or you’re just not using a primer which makes the paint fix to the you’re frame or whatever you’re painting.
June 30th, 2009 at 5:34 pm
RETARD
June 30th, 2009 at 5:37 pm
RETARD….. it will broke ha ha
July 19th, 2009 at 10:29 pm
I just painted my derailleurs and chain gloss black. Sanding the chain is difficult as you can imagine, so instead I sandblasted it. Then two coats of gloss black and three of clear coat and it looks great!
Has anyone painted tires before? I’d like to try it but I don’t know if it is OK to sand tires.
July 19th, 2009 at 10:34 pm
i just painted my fork and bars with rustoleum flat white and premium flat black im worried it will scratch extremely easy is there any suggestions other than flat clear coat because it runs alot and doesnt protect it much either. thanks
July 20th, 2009 at 11:50 am
bully - try flat green paint. It doesn’t scratch as much as black and white do. Glossy green scratches too much especially in the fall.
August 13th, 2009 at 10:53 am
looks beeter black…..oh poor frame but the tactick it’s really nice so cool heheh
August 17th, 2009 at 5:08 pm
Powder coating is obviously the one and only pro method of doing it because a) it is very fine so covers every nook and crany b) because it is baked it will go rock hard and c) because baking it makes the particles melt and fuse and go glossy and the heat will eliminate any dust and so you wont get those horrible speckles on the frame. Unless you have a dust free or air tight room at home (which is doubtful) then there really is no way to get a proper seamless and spotless gloss finish. Plus, yeah for some stupid reason the manafacturer didnt think to make spray paints rock hard!! Rocket science init!
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:13 pm
Maybe your friends had old rusted bikes and the paint had nothing to do with it. Just maybe!!
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:14 pm
R-tard
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:26 pm
Good tip!! Will this take away the orange peel effect?
I always thought it had to do with prep. work, better primer, better sanding or even the way it dry’s.
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:31 pm
krylon is good paint. Are you painting in cold weather? and are you putting on clear coat?
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:49 pm
If you sanded down to the metal, you need to take the rest of the paint off. Before you put on the primer make sure your frame is REALLY clean. I like using lacquer thinner because it dry’s very quick and cleans very well. Alcohol works good too.
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:54 pm
Nice!!
August 23rd, 2009 at 8:58 pm
Y do u want to sand blast your frame? If it’s rusted, I wouldn’t do it.
August 26th, 2009 at 8:50 am
Soooooo many questions posted! Use matte paint and matte clear for a flat finish, use satin paint and satin clear for a “between” finish and use gloss paint and gloss clear for a gloss finish. If you sand down to raw you MUST use primer. Wet sand afterward (and during) to get a more “pro” look. Powdercoatig WILL NOT damage your frame. If it does than you have yourself a big ‘ole check comin (after you win the lawsuit) to purchase yourself a whole new bike! Another good spray-can use tip, along with spraying in short, straight strokes 12″-18″ away from project and wiping nozzle frequently to avoid clinging is to hold can upside down (and AWAY from project) and thus spray only pressurized air to clear out delivery system during ad after use. Basically common sense people. Plan first and prepare. “Measure twice, cut once”. Preparation is 9/10th of the job.
September 2nd, 2009 at 7:25 pm
I love your article! Thank You. roulette software
September 4th, 2009 at 8:21 am
jus use flat paint instead of gloss that should work well enough
September 4th, 2009 at 8:24 am
also every few minutes hold the spray can upside down and press down until only gas comes out then the nozzle is clear.
September 8th, 2009 at 3:03 am
And I quote this from wikipedia…
When a thermoset powder is exposed to elevated temperature, it begins to melt, flows out, and then chemically reacts to form a higher molecular weight polymer in a network-like structure. This cure process, called crosslinking, requires a certain degree of temperature for a certain length of time in order to reach full cure and establish the full film properties for which the material was designed. Normally the powders cure at 200°C (390°F) in 10 minutes. The curing schedule could vary according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
September 8th, 2009 at 3:17 am
I found your blog on google and read a few of your other posts. I just added you to my Google News Reader. Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.
September 8th, 2009 at 12:39 pm
thanks wwww.suatsezgin.com http://www.suatsezgin.com
September 18th, 2009 at 8:08 pm
cool pics
September 19th, 2009 at 12:32 am
HOW HEAVY DOES THE BIKE GET AFTER YOU FINISH PIANTING IT?
September 23rd, 2009 at 12:36 am
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September 24th, 2009 at 10:43 am
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September 28th, 2009 at 11:04 am
cool pics
September 29th, 2009 at 12:29 pm
can i just spray paint my razor pro kick scooter?
September 29th, 2009 at 8:49 pm
cool pics http://myflooringsupplies.blogspot.com
September 30th, 2009 at 2:15 pm
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October 4th, 2009 at 12:25 am
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Very well done indeed.
October 4th, 2009 at 4:57 am
cool pics http://www.magarchive.tcu.edu/articles/2007-03-AN3.asp
October 4th, 2009 at 6:42 am
Thank you very much…
afyon web tasar?m
ahmet k?r?at ?anak
ahmet k?r?at ?anak
October 4th, 2009 at 9:22 pm
cool pics http://www.magarchive.tcu.edu/articles/2007-03-AN3.asp
October 5th, 2009 at 2:20 am
cool pics http://www.magarchive.tcu.edu/articles/2007-03-AN3.asp
October 5th, 2009 at 5:08 pm
cool pics
October 17th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
How to get any paint glossy ?
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October 23rd, 2009 at 5:20 am
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YAY for Jeff Nemerofsky. http://www.jeffnemerofsky.com
October 23rd, 2009 at 8:01 am
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