Ben Wallace’s bike is in a league of its own—starting with a custom Mongoose frame, with a one of kind powder coated paint job, a Profile cassette hub that he makes extra loud, a generous amount of titanium parts, and more…
Frame: Custom Mongoose
Fork: Odyssey R series 32mm
Bars: Odyssey Sweepstake
Stem: Profile Push Mark Mulville
Grips: Stay Strong ODI
Barends: ODI plastic
Headset: Odyssey Pro
Seatpost: Demolition Pivotal
Seat: Demolition Axes Pivotal
Pedals: Odyssey Tom Dugan Grandstand
Cranks: Profile 170mm, LHD, 19mm spline, Profile 48 spline titanium axle, Odyssey bearings.
Sprocket: Profile spline, 28-tooth
Chain: Shadows Conspiracy Interlock 2
Front Tire: Maxxis DTH 2.2” foldable
Front Wheel: Odyssey Hazard Lite rim, Profile Totem hub, titanium spokes, female bolts
Rear Tire: Maxxis Grifter 2.0” foldable
Rear Wheel: Odyssey Hazard Lite rim, Profile Totem hub, LHD 9 tooth with titanium driver, titanium spokes and female bolts
Pegs: Demolition Dumbchuck
Brakes: Odyssey Evo 2
Lever: Odyssey Monolever small left hand side
Detangler: Odyssey Gyro GTX-S
Your peg setup is interesting…Why do you choose to run the metal core only?
Plastic are way too slippery for over peg tricks on wood, so I wanted the grip from the metal pegs without the weight and bulk.
Besides tubes, which parts you do go through the fastest or just change out most often?
I’d say pedals, seats and grips. My seat because I actually use it, grips because crashing out on dirt generally ruins them as they get full of dust and tear and pedals because the occasionally bend or I rip the pins out and it ruins the thread to replace with fresh pins.
Describe your bike for us… What makes it your ride?
I ride a 21” top tube and a what most people would class as long 14.1” backend as I’m goofy footed, so I struggle with hitting my feet on the back peg. Bars if anything are 1 or 2 degrees forward as it’s my preferred position when riding. Seat post is roughly 4” high so that I can grip it with my bow-legs as I clamp the seat with my knees and not shins. I run my brake on the left as this is ‘normal’ in Europe. My brake cable runs through the bottom of my seat tube—which not only keeps it looking tidy, but stops me catching my jeans and ankles on the cable. I have to have my chain super tight as I can’t stand the sound of a slack chain and my cranks spinning whilst doing whips and things. I have always taken apart my rear hub, removed the grease and bent the springs to make it louder as I like the sound of the cassette hub. I color code my top cap for my forks with the frame just to make it look a little slicker. I run 90 psi in both front and back tyres. I like my tyres to be hard—especially as I’m a regular sized human and don’t like it feeling as though my tyres are soft and are going to roll off my rims when going round berms.
The color of your bike is pretty sweet. Is that a custom paint job?
Yeah. I like to switch up my colors each year and have always gone to R&R Powder Coating in Riverside who always hook me up with a sweet paint job.
What are you most particular about on your bike?
I like everything to sounds tight and it has to be clean—which isn’t always ideal considering I ride dirt. But when it looks good and feels smooth I think it makes for a better ride.
Setup/part wise, what was the last big change you made?
Well, this isn’t in fact my most recent frame as that got totaled by a semi truck the week before X Games. However, the biggest changes I have made to my ‘currently in production’ frame is the back end is now 13.75” from 14”, I’ve lowered the bottom bracket from 11.5” to 11.1” to make my stand over lower due to my height and now run 170mm cranks instead of 175mm to help with ground and peg clearance. Other than it’s the same.