The D-man needs no introduction. What we have here is his current Kink Mudrunner setup—aptly equipped for laying waste to anything and everything Chris decides to put his whitewall tires to…

Age: 32
Height: 6’3”
Weight: 180
Years riding: “Twenty-ish”
Sponsors: Kink Bicycles, Rockstar Energy, Fuse Protection, Demolition Parts, Duo, Empire BMX, Camp Three Clothing

“As far as whitewalls go, I like the classy look of ‘em. Like a Rolls Royce and shit…or, the Delorean from Back To The Future III.” Photo: Mulligan

Frame: Kink Mudrunner, 21.25” top tube
Fork: Demolition Maiden (Doyle signature)
Bars: Demolition Suburban (Doyle signature)
Stem: Demolition Keystone (Doyle signature)
Grips: Duo Bohans
Bar ends: Plastic Duo (comes with the grips)
Headset: A mix and matched Kink and Demolition contraption
Brake lever: DiaTech Tech 77, baby!
Brake cable: Odyssey Linear
Brakes: Demolition Vulcan
Seatpost: Demolition Pivotal (about two feet long)
Seat: Demolition Anthem pivotal (Doyle signature)
Cranks: Demolition Revolt, 175mm
Bottom bracket: Demolition
Sprocket: Demolition Mugatu, 28-tooth
Chain: KMC
Front Tire: Duo Stunner, whitewall, 20” x 2.20”
Front Rim/hub: Demolition Zero rim, Demolition Ghost hub
Rear Tire: Duo Stunner, whitewall, 20” x 2.20”
Rear Rim/hub: Demolition Zero rim, Demolition Rogue hub, 9-tooth
Spokes: Demolition
Pedals: Demolition Trooper AL
Helmet: Currently running an S1 Lifer

Any modifications/extras?
Aside from trimming the bars down a little and putting the custom bend on my brake lever, everything is pretty stock.

How do you place your bars?
I try to put them just a little bit forward of the rake of my forks. However, it NEVER feels the right way right after I put a new pair on. I have to ride them for a few sessions and just convince myself that they’re in the right place, and I can get used to them where they are.

Do you prefer your brakes on the seat stays over the chain stays? How do you like your brakes to feel?
I used to strongly prefer them on the chain stays, but after running them on the seat stays for so long, I could really care less. I like the brakes to “clap” the wheel loudly at about half pull.

How much brake cable do you like to have?
Enough to where I can wind up the bars once and have no binding.

Are you particular about your brakes? Do you spend a lot of time dialing them in?
This time of the year I’m pretty particular about them since I’m riding so much ramp. Any other time of the year I’m usually riding trails and I don’t mind if they’re a little less dialed. Brakes, and most modern-day parts, are very user-friendly nowadays. Therefore, I don’t really spend too much time dialing them in. As long as you can get the spring tension where you want it, everything else falls into place pretty easy.

Chris prefers his wine to be a fine Cabernet Sauvignon in the $15-$20 range, and his 360 no-footed cans properly extended and highly aerated. Photo: Mulligan

What’s your seat height rule?
For barspins and “pinch seat” tricks I tend to boost it up a few inches, but it’s typically not any lower than “one fist.” I have big feet and if my seat is too low, my feet hit the seat on no-footed cans, turndowns, and inverts. This is unrelated, but I’ve always loved Matt Beringer’s quote when he said, “If my seat was slammed, I wouldn’t be able to do candybar manuals.” When you slam a seat, you give up so much more than just barspin tricks.

When do the pegs usually get put on and taken off? What pegs do you use?
It usually just depends on what I’m riding or what trip I’m on. During the winter in PA, they’re on all of the time. During trail season they stay in my bag, there usually isn’t too much to grind at the trails. I run Demolition pegs and I can make them last for years.

How long have you used left-hand drive? Ever going to switch back to right side?
I don’t know when I made the official transition to left-hand drive. I think with riding more and more street over the years, it just made sense to switch to the other side. I used to think that left-hand drive looked strange, but I’m used to it now. There’s no reason to go back to right-hand drive now. I can’t believe I used to do handrails and ledges with a 39-tooth sprocket on my right hand side—the same side that I grind on.

Any pet peeves when it comes to bikes?
I’m not a fan of extremes—HUGE bars and no seat posts are prime examples. I like an evenly-spaced bike that’s clean looking. The really crazy loud cassettes are a bit annoying, and I think the big handlebar thing is just getting out of control.

You change out certain parts pretty often. Break down what you change, how often, and why.
Depending on how hard I’m riding and how flat I might be landing, I change out my bars, forks, and stem every three to six months. I’m probably too paranoid about these things, but the thought of breaking any one of those parts without warning freaks me out. I know it’s a lot cooler just to say, “I run my stuff until it breaks,” but a lot of times that can be a dangerous philosophy.

Nobody does ‘em better. 360 turndown on a recent visit to the FOD trails in California. Photo: Mulligan

Overall, how do you like your bike to feel?
I prefer to have everything tight, and I generally have between 75 and 80 pounds of pressure in my tires. I like my grips to be worn-in and slightly thin. I hate when my wheels flex. Therefore, I always keep my spokes at their max tightness.

What parts do you go through the fastest?
Tubes, bar ends—plastic, and seat post clamps [laughs]! I have a tendency to, unnecessarily, over tighten all of my nuts and bolts, and I blow through seat post clamps constantly. Maybe I should just lighten up a little bit.

Are you concerned with bike weight? How much does this bike weigh?
I’m not obsessive over the weight of my bike—I ride what my sponsors make. This bike is probably between 25 and 27 pounds. I was getting a little concerned with how light handlebars were getting a few years ago and the rate at which I was hearing about people snapping them—all brands. After talking with [Brian] Castillo about the matter, we decided to beef up the Demolition handlebars a little bit and use double butting in the places where there is the most stress. I’ll trade strength and durability for weight and safety any day. Besides, to me, a bike with a little bit of weight feels better in the air anyways.

What’s one thing this bike has yet to do, but has plans for?
That’s an interesting question. This bike’s been good to me—it’s competed and done well, I’ve filmed a lot on it, and shot a few magazine pics. I’ll probably retire this frame to the garage in the next month or so.

Reader question from Brian Littler: What’s the best improvement on your bike today versus 10 years ago?
It’s hard to nail down just one or two improvements that I would call the “best.” Overall, BMX parts and frames have come so far in the last 10 years and things are so user-friendly now. Just the fact that you can put together a brand new bike in about 20 minutes is really impressive to me. There’s very little hammering involved with bike assembly anymore. I consider myself to be a pretty lousy mechanic, therefore, if I can get a bike to run as good as mine does, that means that bicycle technology has come incredibly far.

“I like an evenly-spaced bike that’s clean looking.” Mission accomplished. Photo: Mulligan