10 Tips For Buying A Complete BMX Bike
FatTony
- October 05 2009
- 8,283 views
- 26 comments
Disclaimer: There are a lot of lame and cheesy photos and illustrations in this article. What do you expect? Us to shoot our own stuff? Pshht. That’s what Google is for, man.
In recent years the quality of bike you can get when buying a compete has steadily been on the rise. Back in the day if you wanted a top of the line bike you had to build it from scratch, piece by piece. Nowadays you can get a great bike at a decent price with some real quality parts on it straight out of a box. But you have to know what you are looking for, so that’s where we come in. If you are in the market for a new setup or you are a parent whose kid wants a new ride, check out these ten tips for buying a complete BMX bike.
1. Know Your Intentions
There are bikes designed specifically for certain types of riding, so knowing what you will use the bike for is huge when selecting a complete. Do you want to ride mostly street? Park? Dirt? Flaltand? Even though you can technically use the same bike for everything, there are key factors on completes that make certain bikes better for certain disciplines of riding. If you aren’t sure which bike is right for which type of riding, then ask other riders at the skatepark or the guys at your local shop for some help.
See? Diiiiiferent…
2. Look For Chromoly
Chromoly is the type of strong, lightweight alloy metal all high-end BMX frames, forks, and bars are made from. Many complete bikes use steel construction in their frames, bars, and/or forks, which makes the bike less durable and a bit heavier. When looking for a complete bike, pay attention to the amount of chromoly used within a certain price range. For instance, if you see two bikes you like that are both in your price range, compare which one uses the most chromoly in their tubing.
Tubing. Tuuubing. Toooobiiiing. Is that from a movie?
3. Pick The Proper Size
Fractions of an inch seem miniscule, but can actually change the feeling of a bike drastically. Many complete bikes come with 20″ top tubes, which can be on the small side for a lot of riders. Luckily since companies have been stepping up their game recently, they have started to make complete bikes with 20.5″ or 20.75″ top tubes too. Also in the past handlebars on complete bikes have been notoriously low and/or narrow. If you have the luxury of going to a shop to buy your bike, test out the bike in the parking lot and make sure you feel comfortable on it. If the bike comes with wide bars, you can always cut them down to your liking for free, but you can’t make narrow bars wider without dropping some extra cash for a new set.
The size of the top tube is measured from the middle of the head tube to the middle of the seat tube.
4. Don’t Expect Things To Last Forever
Things wear out, parts break, and the harder you ride (or crash), the faster your bike will start to fall apart. This is just a part of the game. Also, you get what you pay for so don’t expect a $250 complete to hold up to as much abuse as a $1,000 bike. Be prepared to have things go wrong, but don’t let that discourage you. Learn to work on your bike, and refer to #9 on this list. Also, things on a new complete will have to break in or settle, so parts like headsets, chains, and spokes will need to be tightened shortly after your first few sessions.
Loose chain? No problem. The bike ain’t broken, just pull back the back wheel and tighten it.
5. Small Parts Make A Big Difference
The components on a bike can make the complete really good, or really bad. It can also make the bike be really expensive, or really cheap. So check out all the parts on the bike to see what kind of quality you are getting. If the bike is spec’d with name brand parts like Shadow, Odyssey, or SNAFU, you know you are getting something better than generic parts. Also, on the “small” topic, look for a small gearing. A small sprocket in the front means less metal to get in the way of certain tricks, and less weight. At the same time, you don’t need a 25t sprocket to be cool. A 30t sprocket will still do the trick. However, if the bike comes with a 45t, watch out because the whole bike is probably outdated.
Big generic sprocket…not as good. Small name brand sprocket…better.
6. Know Your Price Point
If this list was in any kind of order, this point would probably be at the top. Once you figure out what kind of riding you’ll be doing (which will help you decide the style of bike to look for), you need to figure out how much money you can spend. Set your limit, and do some hardcore comparisons of each complete in that price range. You can use mail order web sites, company Web sites, or company catalogs to get a good look at each of your options. Don’t get all worked up over the $1,200 complete if you can only afford to spend $500.
Do not try to print this photo to help pay for your bike. It won’t work. I tested it.
7. Look For Weight
We aren’t saying that you have to have a super light bike to be a good rider, but a lightweight complete bike usually means it has some good parts on it, and is made from good materials. Most quality aftermarket parts are lighter (and stronger) than the generic steel parts. Likewise, a stronger chromoly frame is lighter than an all-steel frame. Many people feel that a light bike can help you keep control over it better, and will allow you to ride longer without getting as tired.
A good, average weight for a complete is somewhere around 25lbs, give or take a few.
8. Don’t Get Sold On Gimmicks Or Colors
Sure you want your bike to be clean and have a certain look you are into, and it’s perfectly fine to want to match some parts or have specific colors on your bike. However you shouldn’t buy a bike solely based off of the color scheme or some kind of gimmick. You don’t see it as much anymore, but lots of completes used to come with pad sets, number plates, or “flashy” stickers that were designed to draw attention to the bike in hopes of making you fall in love with it. Those days are mostly gone, but just keep in mind not to get sold on a bike just because it has wild looking graphics with lots of bells and whistles. Remember, you can always paint your frame or parts later… (Check out our how-to paint a frame article.)
Flashy and eye catching frame? Yep. Practical and strong? Absolutely not.
9. Look For A Shop Service Plan
A lot of bike shops offer a free service plan when you buy a complete bike. It may be six months, or it may be a year, but whatever it is, take advantage of it. By bringing in your bike for some routine maintenance, you’ll keep her running smooth, and you may even learn some tips on how to work on your bike yourself. When you bring it in for a tune up, the shop will do things like tighten the chain, spokes, and bolts, dial in the brakes, and tell you if anything needs to be replaced.
If your shop’s mechanic is as fuzzy as this photo, go to another shop. But for the most part, shop employees know how to work on bikes so let them dial it in for you.
10. Build It Up Right
If you order a complete from a mail order site the bike isn’t showing up ready for you to jump on. It’ll come in a box and you’ll need to put on the pedals, front wheel, and handlebars. You’ll also have to set up the brakes. If you don’t feel like you know how to build up a bike properly, bring it to a friend or your local bike shop that can help. You’ll be bummed if you mess up your new bike before you even get a chance to ride it.
11. Look For Sealed Bearings
Sealed bearings in wheels (hubs), bottom brackets, and headsets will allow your bike to roller smoother for longer. Unsealed bearings are much cheaper and require a lot more maintenance for them to work well. If you have unsealed bearings and they become loose and start to wobble, then your entire bike will feel like crap and you won’t even have fun riding it after a while. Did we say ten tips? Oh well…whatever.
Bonus Tip For The Parents: Don’t Try To Guess What Your Kid Wants
Don’t try to guess what kind of bike your child wants. The last thing you want to do is waste money on something that Timmy isn’t stoked on and doesn’t want to ride. Have your kid go to the shop with you, talk with him and the guys in the shop, and get something that your he will be stoked to ride every day.
Hell yeah, dude! Righteous! Tubular! Gnarly! Siiiiick!
Good luck! If you bought a complete and have some tips of your own, feel free to post them in the comments. Also, if you have more questions, leave them in the comments and we’ll try to help you out.
(Thanks to Dan’s Comp and Google Images for the photos.)
















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October 5th, 2009 at 5:09 pm
Dave Mirraco is gonna be sooo pissed
October 5th, 2009 at 5:13 pm
This was extremely helpful, everything that I wanted to know about a BMX now was explained. Now if I can find a light 20.75" street bike for 450, I'll be happy lol
October 5th, 2009 at 5:21 pm
why? I dont get it, what happened?
October 5th, 2009 at 6:18 pm
cool site
October 5th, 2009 at 8:27 pm
dude ur a retard his name is Dave Mirra and his company is called Mirraco
October 5th, 2009 at 10:17 pm
the guy working on the bike works at my local shop
October 5th, 2009 at 11:59 pm
A nice tip for begginers is to check shadow conspiracy site because they have video on how to built your bike from scrap…Also check matt Willhelms video "how to build your bike" (or smthing like that) on youtube!
Another thing that worked with me, was experiencing…try to loose a part and then fix it so you get known to your bike!
October 6th, 2009 at 5:01 am
Here are those links, thanks Jimvas…
http://www.theshadowconspiracy.com/instructions.h...
http://bmx.transworld.net/2009/05/21/how-to-build...
October 6th, 2009 at 6:18 pm
yeh his name is dave mirra his company mirraco which means mirra company ? haha
October 6th, 2009 at 6:45 pm
yeah i have a macneil whitton sig frame and i lyk it….^_^
October 6th, 2009 at 11:28 pm
Part of this should tell you to go to your local shop just to promote local shops when I moved to CO the first thing I did was find the only shop in my town and now the guy sponsors me to represent for his shop and I've met a ton of riders. SUPPORT THE LOCAL BMX SCENE!
October 7th, 2009 at 12:21 am
that kid looks weird/excited
October 8th, 2009 at 2:02 am
So true man.
Actually our local BMX dist pumps out shirts that say
SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOP
They sell like hot cakes on Sunday.
Local shops support the scene, plan events, fix your bike, and help when you need it.
You'll never see a mail order doing that.
Shop local, support your scene!
October 8th, 2009 at 8:01 am
This is a really great article Tony!
October 8th, 2009 at 11:28 am
You got em!
Willhelms' video helped me 2 years ago sooo much!
October 8th, 2009 at 9:40 pm
i think he is cute
October 9th, 2009 at 4:31 am
I think the 2010 FIT complete bikes are the best I've seen yet. Along with the WeThePeople bikes, those are pretty good. But I totally recommend FITBIKECO.
October 9th, 2009 at 6:28 pm
TIMELESS?!?!?!?!?
October 9th, 2009 at 6:30 pm
Building a bike is an experience more kids need to have. Anyone can buy a bike, but to make something and love it, that's amazing.
October 9th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
its a good article but rideBMX could have just as easily just pointed out the good completes by brand and name but they dont want to piss off their advertisers:)
you want a 100% 4130 chromoly frame. only the top models in bike manufactures lines are made with 100% 4130 these days unfortunately because of insane metal prices. usually a company only has 2 or 3. FIT has a good amount, so does khe, but other than that im not so sure, waaaaaay to much high tensile (1020) out there. fbm trys to get away with selling a bike with a high ten rear triangle for like 450 bucks, rip off!!!!
stolen has a good selection of 100% 4130 completes too.
you also want double wall WELDED rims, this means the seam is welded not just pinned together, again this is a rare thing on completes only the top models come with them.
also you want tubular 4130 cranks with sealed bearings.
those three things are what makes a complete bike accetable in my eyes for actual serious bmx riding. anything less your just going to break if you actualy do gaps and grinds even if you are a small dude.
its also preferable that its made in Taiwan NOT CHINA.
October 11th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
You have made some very good points here.
Also…
100% 4130 chromoly forks (not just steer tube, not just legs, FULL) I would even go so far as to say look for a 100% chromoly fork before the frame. A fork is less expensive to replace than a frame, of course, but it's usually the first thing to bend. Something I'd noticed about Hoffman's completes (let's save the brand biases for a second, folks) was that you'd see a full chromoly fork on their bikes, even on their "lower-end" models. Somebody was thinking, there.
100% 4130 chromoly bars - Steel bars are also one of the first things to bend, however, they are easy, and fairly inexpensive, to replace. Look for them, but I'd say don't get too hung up on them because they might not be the right size or bend, anyway, and are a lot of times the first thing guys switch out.
Sealed bearing hubs are nice to have, too, though they usually only appear on upper-end models. And so far every loose-ball cassette hub I've seen has SUCKED ASS! The ball bearings in them are too small, therefore not durable enough to last more than a week, and they constantly need readjusted, which is a pain in the ass and can be a nightmare. Guys, DO NOT waste your money on a loose-ball cassette hub EVER. Worst idea ever, man. Whoever designed that did so just so the buzz word "cassette" would appear in the specs.
Unsealed mid bottom brackets suck, too. Same deal as with the unsealed cassette hubs. The bearings are too small to hold up to any abuse, and they constantly need readjusted. Waste of time. Don't just look for the word "mid", look for "sealed mid". Replacing an unsealed mid bb is a little more involved (to switch to a sealed one), too, because you will also have to replace your spindle. This means you have to get a sealed (non-threaded) spindle that matches up to the spline count/notches on your crank arms (not as easy as it might sound depending on which cranks the bike comes equipped with), or just replace the entire crank set (which can get pricey).
Yes, Taiwan before China (I'm glad I'm not the only one that's noticed the difference in quality), but USA before Taiwan, too, if possible.
And support local shops. Sales made locally generate sales tax dollars that help pay for things like street repairs and (waaaait for iiiiit…) LOCAL SKATEPARKS (and their ongoing maintenance)! When was the last time a purchase made on the internet had any kind of effect on your local community like buying local does? Your local shop is there to serve you guys (or they should be, anyway), so give them the sale if you can.
October 15th, 2009 at 12:56 am
Your all retarded
you all make no sense
go ride a load
October 25th, 2009 at 2:06 am
Very Informing
October 31st, 2009 at 3:40 am
As a bike shop that carries several of the brands mentioned here, I'd like to add DK's to the list of completes to check out. Very good spec and a lot of chromoly tubing when comparing apples to apples (or similarly priced bikes of another brand).
November 19th, 2009 at 10:10 pm
i like to skateboard but i like bikin to i have 2 haros ::D
November 23rd, 2009 at 3:30 am
… What's the difference between street and dj/ramp bikes?